Neal Bierling, Archaeological Adventures: Getting High in Peru, Year 2, Lago Titicaca has its Surprises:

The Village of Chucuito and its Pisicultura at 13,000 feet.

They sang Feliz Cumpleanos to me walking over here

The map again showing the village Chucuito upper left

The musical group this year.

Me with the same group in 2013.

September 20, 2014 (evening)

Once we arrived back in Puno from the 9-hour boat ride on Lago Titicaca, we went to the Plaza de Armas where the students were informed to meet at the restaurant at 7:30 pm. All of us gathered at 7:30 pm for cena (supper) and a local musical group sang and played pan flute (and other instruments) for us informing that music brings the cultures together. We enjoyed the group and thanked them as they departed. Last year, I purchased their CD/DVD. Later, we hopped back onto the bus and returned to our hotel.

September 21, 2014

Now, back at our hotel in Chucuito, Profe allowed us to sleep in on Domingo (Sunday), but we needed to gather outside the hotel near the lago for 9 am devotions. Once we finished reading scripture and singing songs accompanied by guitar, we were given free time until noon. Profe encouraged the students to explore the local village, and the two of us headed first for the fish farm since Profe missed it last year (I went there alone then). All of sudden, the Colombia and Mexico students were above us on the trail singing “Feliz Cumpleanos” for me. Gracias amigas.

The fingerings

A Rainbow Trout from Colorado

The bigger ones are behind them

Other fish

Back to the Rainbow Trout

Together, we headed for the fish hatchery and since the six of us were the first visitors, as he unlocked the gate, he took us to the “incubation” room where the students fed the fingerlings. What especially surprised Profe and myself was that the fish were Rainbow Trout, initially from Colorado USA decades ago. I did not know that last year during my brief visit. The adult trout are huge and beautiful. Other students joined us soon after. This fish farm is popular with the locals for Sunday picnics, but since we arrived shortly after 10 am opening, the locals did not begin to arrive until we departed.

Blocks from the Inca Temple above and below

Profe had informed the students about other sights to see in Chucuito. Katia, our friend and travel advisor had provided us with a map of the village—what to look for and how to get there. The village has an Incan Temple of Fertility next to one of the old Catholic churches rather than being under it as is quite often the case. However, some of its blocks were taken and recycled at the Cathedral.

After the fish farm, we headed for the Plaza de Armas, which is a pretty plaza with fancy-cut bushes, a quartz sundial, and a good number of locals communing together on Sunday. The transit vans kept on coming into the plaza where the area locals gather for food and fellowship. Profe Bierling wanted the students to come here because as the stones laid out on the hillside state, “Cajas Reales” or Royal boxes. During the Spanish Conquest times of the Inca King Atahualpa, the Spanish placed boxes here before a cross (also shown in a picture), and the local Incas had to fill them with gold and silver to save the life of their king, but the Spanish killed him in spite of all the gathered gold/silver.

The main Cathedral, the Nuestra Senora de la Asuncion is missing its original roof now replaced with tin, and the church shows its wear. No services are held here due to no priest for this village of 1100 inhabitants. Near the front and off to one side was a painting of a bridge linking this village and church with Rome. In the back was a well-worn painting showing the Circumcision of Jesus with the rabbi in the foreground, Baby Jesus held by Mary and Joseph on the left in back. Last year we were the only visitors, and only a few other tourists entered while we were there this year. Some of the 2014 students also entered. Profe and I were happy to be able to spend some time inside the church filled with so many ghosts of the past but were unable to tell us their history.

The Wedding party above.

Evidently a wedding reception had occurred as we approached the Cathedral and the guests were now below the steps. Other than the bride and groom, the guests were wearing traditional dress, as the pictures show. The pictures also show (discretely) the cases of beer the guests had in front of them. I re-photographed the plaza as combi after combi (transit vans) were bringing in the surrounding locals to relax and visit together in the plaza on Sunday (Domingo).

By noon, we gathered back at the hotel for “almuerzo” or lunch and we sang “Happy Birthday” to me (Sept 21) and to three other students whose birthdays were either on September 22 or soon after.

We left the village and hotel (wise choice) and headed for Puno and the Mirador (Lookout) where we were able to see a statue of Manco Capac, the first Inca (King, ca. AD 1200) pointing to Lago Titicaca and their spiritual homeland before the Inca moved to Cusco (already blogged).