Getting High in Peru, 19,339 Feet High

Getting High in Peru: Climbing Volcano Mt. Misti, a plus 19,339-foot Peak

          We did it. We successfully climbed the 19,339-foot mountain, but not without problems. All of us have been seeing that mountain on a daily basis since the beginning of August and some of the students also wanted to climb it (A few others had been sick and were unable to go up with us.). We left for the mountain Saturday around 8:30 AM in 3-4 x 4s. There were 13 of us plus three German-Swiss on vacation who asked to join the group. Even though the mountain looms in front of us, it took a while to drive on bad dirt roads to get to the drop off point on the back side of the volcanic mountain.  

On our way to Misti (above and below)

            I had spent a bit of time researching which way up would be the best for me and the students. I may have put myself first since I did not want to slow the students down in our assault of Misti. Even though this route was a bit more expensive (the 4 x 4s would have to take us to the other side of the mountain), I chose the assault on Misti which would require that the students carry all their gear, tents, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, snacks, and 5 liters of water for 3 hours rather than 6 hours on the other routes up (Quechua Tours gave us a very good group rate.). The 4 x 4s dropped us off at 13,600 feet and we needed to hike up to 15, 969 feet to base camp. I was glad that I made this decision after watching a few students come into base camp quite exhausted. When Misti last blew, it shot rocks, volcanic sand, and ash in avalanche fashion on our side of the mountain. The volcanic sand that we hiked up with our packs was like Michigan’s sand dune sand. We arrived at base camp at 3 PM, a 2 ½ hour slog not 3 hours, and the students went to work immediately on setting up their tents. The wind was fierce but still warm.  

 

The 4 x 4s have left. We are putting our packs together (above and below)

Our hike up to the base camp

            At 4 PM supper was ready, and we had supper early since the sun was on the other side of the mountain, and it would get dark and cold here soon. We had one excellent guide (Ignacio) and two very good assistants (Gaston and Angel—so we had an angel watching over us which we appreciated). We had hot veggie soup and tea plus spaghetti with tuna sauce (our two vegetarians got theirs before the tuna was added). It was not surprising that everybody retired (including the German-Swiss three) to their tents by 6 PM since the wind was fierce and it got cold. Talking continued in the tents at least in the tents near me.

Our tents at the base camp 15,969 feet.

Making supper behind a windbreak

Waiting in line for our hot food above and below

Note how we are dressed now?

No, we're not cold.

            We were woken up at 1 AM for coca tea, squeaky cheese, jam and bread. I had also made two and one-half liters of coca tea (and took along coca leaves) at our house for this trip, but I have no idea if this was why I was one of the few (other than our guides and they too were using forms of coca) with no altitude sickness. At 2 AM Sunday, we continued our assault up Misti. At base camp the temperature was just above freezing, the sleeping bag and tent were so warm and now my fingers and toes were beginning to go numb. Therefore, I had no desire to recheck the temperature as we ascended (It was 3 degrees C as we began), even though my temp gauge was attached to my backpack. Well, it was dark as well. 

(No pictures while going up; it was just too cold for my fingers to push the button.)

            I was dismayed to discover that we would be hiking up the entire 6 hours on “scree.” When Misti blew its top, it sent an avalanche of rock fragments, and volcanic sand over the top—all of this is loose material. So, for six hours it was switchback after switchback after switchback over this scree. Gaston gave me a walking stick to help me keep my balance. However, until the sun came out, my fingers were too numb to use it correctly. So, from 15,969 feet to 19, 339 (plus) feet this was what we hiked up on. It was funny, that at the beginning of the hike up all of us, except for the German-Swiss, were chatting constantly. But as the elevation increased and the amount of oxygen decreased, our chatting ended. 

            Already the night before, students were asking me for high-altitude sickness medication (at the 15,969-foot base camp). Profe had told the students where to buy it, but Profe was compassionate and gave me some in case the students had not purchased any. Now, at our breaks going up (first after 1 ½ hours, then every 45 minutes), a student or two would be asking me for the medication—or, I was resupplying last night’s requests.        

            I did not have high-altitude head pains other than not getting enough oxygen into my lungs. I was slowing down drastically and wondering whether or not I should just quit. Students who noted my lethargy shouted down encouragement as did the guide (the two assistants were helping others behind me), but I was just tired and a bit discouraged to acknowledge. 

 

5832m = 19,362 feet. That's Chachani behind my hand, a plus 20,000-foot peak for next year?

Resting on the top before taking pics.

The volcanic crater

Well, one is up taking pics

Oops. Only me taking pics?

We're getting up. That's Arequipa down below

That's our guide Ignacio on the left and Gaston on the right.

A few are venturing closer to the crater

Some continue to rest.

            Exactly six hours later, at 8 AM, the guide and several students made it to the top. I dragged myself to the peak perhaps five minutes later and a few others dragged in after me. We spent an hour on the top, resting, taking pictures of Arequipa, the volcanic crater (still sending up plumbs of smoke), the exhausted students, and then finally we took group shots. It took us just 90 minutes to return to base camp because we slid down the scree. It took us less than an hour to go from the base camp to the 4 x 4s since we were sliding down dunes of volcanic sand to the vehicles. We had 3- 4 x 4s, but mine got stuck in the volcanic sand when attempting to return to Arequipa so another one of our 4 x 4s towed us out. 

 

Group shots above and below.

Guide Ignacio took this shot for me.

            We all made it back and several students told me that all of them had thoughts like mine, that he/she would not make it to the top. Plus, several of us had a similar problem; as we tried to take a deep breathe, our throats hurt. We all agreed that it was a great but exhausting experience (Misti is there), and that they (and me) would not do it again. “But, please Neal, do set it up for next year, except, no details of the scree.”

This is our base camp in daylight as we begin to take our tents down.

The peak and all the scree going up to 19,339 plus feet.

Very little vegetation and a bit of colorful lichen on the rocks.

            Thanks to Quechua Tours for giving us excellent guides including the very veteran climber Ignacio, his very capable assistant Gaston, and our guardian assistant Angel. We also used this company for our rafting trip, and I used them earlier for biking down Mt. Chachani. 

Paz y Shalom,

Neal